How To Get Your Fruit Trees To Produce Edible Fruit - Without Harsh Chemicals

Well, maybe not apples and oranges, but apple and orange trees, or any other fruitproducing tree for that matter. Virtually a fruit tree is much like any tree, which are plants. All plants have certain needs to sustain life. Those needs are met by soil, water, and sun. (with variations to just how much of each are needed)

I mean you cant grow a fern well by planting it in a spot that gets full sun, all day long. Well, you can, but I wouldn't recommend it. (Unless you prefer the look of a shriveled up pile of deadness) However, you could put something else there that likes the full sun, and it will thrive there. Why? Because you have met the requirements for that plant. Be it a flower, a shrub, or a tree.

I'm getting to that! Let me first say that I am unsure what kind of fruit tree you are growing, so I can only talk in generality, but virtually any fruit tree will do well with the following tips. Also I am unsure if you might be growing young trees, seeking advice for starting an orchardor caring for inherited fruit trees which are poor producers. (Man, I sure can makes things confusing, can't I?) So, without further adue, here is some general information that you may well already know, with a few hints thrown in for good measure. Also, these are extremely earth friendly and totally healthy, non-chemical ways to make your fruit trees positively happy little fruit popping maniacs. (Like me!)

A healthy tree will produce an abundance of fruit. A healthy tree will be disease resistant, and will bear fruit that in turn will be disease resistant, and insect free. The trick is getting the conditions correct for what ever tree you are planting, and maintaining the conditions and environment for that tree. (Wow, there you go again, getting all complicated and stuff.)

Not really. You got your tree, you got your spot, now you prepare the ground. Simple. You dig the hole. I like to dig the hole to twice the size of the root ball, at least. (This has been the way I have had the most success, anyway) Sometimes a bit more, depending on the quality of the existing soil and clay content. (Hate to say this, but the tougher it is to dig, the bigger the hole should be) You want to give those new roots room to grow before they hit hard, resistant soil. let them get a big ol' root ball built up with lots of little feeder roots. (Ooh, feels all warm and cozy) Take a garden fork and jab at the sides of the hole all around to loosen the soil a bit. (Yes, the bottom of the hole too.)

Now it's time to go to the garage and get those fish you forgot to clean the other day that are ripening in the cooler you forgot to drain, and drag it back to the hole, pinch your nose, and pour it into the hole. No fish? How about some manure, (Store bought poop-in-a-bag is fine as long as it is composted) or raw compost? You know, the stuff from your kitchen you are suppose to be collecting in a pile somewhere? I mentioned fish because fish are full of goodies for future use of the tree, and fish emulsion is a fine organic fertilizer, if one is ever needed.

Now, with a layer of some of the above mentioned material in the bottom of the hole, mix of some of the soil you removed with some of your better compost. About two shovels of compost to one shovel of existing soil. Back fill the hole to the desired depth on which to set the root ball. Go by the plants tag to set the crown of the tree at the desired height for the type of tree you are planting. Once the root ball is set, back fill with a mix of two shovel fulls of existing soil and one of compost, to a point that will allow for a top dressing of an inch of your finest compost, after tamping the soil, and what ever mulch you are going to use. (Yes mulch. And I do highly suggest using mulch for weed control and to allow the earth to breath)

After tamping in the soil, being sure you have firm contact all around the root ball (you don't want any air pockets), and you have added your compost and mulch, it is time to water the tree in. A good drink, slowly given will be greatly appreciated by your new friend. In fact, your new tree will need your help for the first season as it stretches it's root system out into it's new surroundings. A rain gauge in the vicinity of the tree will give you some idea of how much water you will need to supply on at least a weekly basis.

Oh. Why didn't you say so? (I could have skipped all that other stuff) If you are having trouble getting a good harvest from existing fruit trees, don't despair. With a little TLC, even the most neglected fruit tree can be saved and re-nourished.

I would begin by looking at the ground. That is, the ground beneath the tree. Is the soil covered by turf? Is the ground just bare earth? Is there moss growing on the ground? Are there weeds all over the place?

If the ground is covered by turf, then this is good. The soil is relatively healthy, and probably only needs some minor sprucing up. If the ground is bare earth, then one of two things is true. Possibly both. Either the tree needs to be pruned to let more light and air to circulate, or the earth beneath the tree is, or has become, drained of nutrients and in desperate need of nourishment,. (And most likely the poor tree as well!) If the ground has moss growing, and spotty, spindly blades of grass, then the soil has drainage problems and needs aeration. If there are weeds, they are probably feasting on the same nutrients as the tree, and are in competition with the tree. (See, the ground can tell you allot)

In cases that I have rejuvinated existing fruit trees, I have begun at the ground, and worked my way up. My plan of action is rather simple. (I don't do well with complicated plans, and this one works for me.) After a ground inspection, I grab a flat headed shovel, and remove the turf, or weeds, or at least an inch or two of tired earth all the way around the tree, to a point a few inches farther out than the drip line of the tree. (Hay, I never said this was gonna be easy!) At this point, I then take a garden fork and begin jabbing at the earth all around the newly opened ground.

In cases where I know the drainage is poor, I check to get an idea why. Usually, it is a case of heavy or clay soil. Not to worry. Grab a spade, break up the earth a bit more and throw in a few shovels of Gypsum and work it in a bit. You don't have to have it all pretty because you are going to add a bit of sand and several shovelfuls of good old compost to the soil and then mix it up some more untill it all looks evenly distributed. Adding some earthworms will also help to break down the clay and heavy soil.

You can skip the Gypsum and sand if you do not have drainage problems, but do add several shovel fulls of compost around the tree, all the way out to the point you have cleared. Mulch and you are done at this level. Now it is time to look a bit higher.

Look over the condition of the tree. Check the bark. Is it clean? Are there a bunch of bugs running up and down the trunk? Are there any bore holes in the bark? Moss or fungus growing anywhere? How are the leaves? (If there are any) Are they green and healthy? Are they yellowish, or brown on the ends? Are they chewed? Are they spotted? What about the fruit, if there is any? Are they malformed? Do they have blotches? Are they splitting? Do they have worms or bugs? How do the branches look? Is there a lot of dead wood? Are branches crossing over one another? Can air circulate well throughout the tree and around the branches?

An inspection of the trunk will tell you if the tree is worth saving. If there are no bore holes, and for the most part the tree looks like it is relatively healthy, then the next step is pruning. Fruit trees need annual pruning to help keep them healthy, and in turn, your harvest will be much better. While pruning, you may begin by removing any damaged or less than healthy foliage from the tree. If you suspect mold, or any type of fungal growth, remove the questionable material and destroy it. Do not compost it.

Next, it is time to tackle the tangled branches. Remove any branches that crossover one another. They can rub and may cause a wound that could open the tree to infection or infestation. Also, prune your tree at the appropriate time of the year (It sucks pruning all the buds off the tree by pruning in the spring)

Pruning will allow the air to circulate, allowing the tree to breath. You will also find that the fruit will also dry quickly after a rain, and the air circulating also helps the fruit to mature evenly and quickly, while also keeping the fruit from forming fungus or mold spots.

If you do suspect insect infestation, you can spray with Neem oil. This is an earth friendly, non-toxic, green oil that will protect your tree and is a natural product. If you are unsure if there is a fungal problem, you can take a piece of the fruit along with an infected branch to your local nursery and they can help identify the problem. Green is very in right now, and all the major homeimprovement stores, most of the big department stores, and local nurseries carry environmentally friendly, or green products for curing what ever problem is affecting your tree. One product available is Green Cure, which makes on organic fungicide

Introducing beneficial insects, like Lady Bugs and the like will help your trees by protecting them from aphids and nasty little bugs that are out to harm your precious trees.

At any rate, after doing the above mentioned suggestions, just sit back and relax. Your fruit trees will soon be on the mend, and in no time you will be annoying your neighbors with the overflow of your harvest. However, I do have just one more suggestion. I have found that some of the best fruits I have harvested have been during seasons which I gave monthly feedings of Compost Tea. (No, you can't drink it, but your plants are gonna love it!)

I begin by taking a new or clean 30 Gallon Plastic trash can with a tight fitting lid, a fish tank air pump, some air hose and an air stone, a plastic spicket from the hardware store and some silicone sealer. I cut a hole about six inches or so up the side of the trash can and mount the spicket. When the Silicone is dry, (Because otherwise it would leak), I put the trash can on concrete blocks to raise it enough to be able to put a watering can under the spout. I then fill the trash can to about a foot from the top.

If you are using town or city water, you can leave the top off the trash can overnight, and simply allow the chlorine to evaporate out, or you can make a quick trip to where ever they sell aquarium supplies and purchase a small bottle of chlorine out. Aquarists use this product to make the water safe for fish. It isolates and removes harmful chemicals from the water. It will work for this application as well. Just a couple drops per gallon (Depending on the product) will do. Treat the water as if there were thirty gallons. Next, drop in the air line with the air stone into the water. Weight the air stone if needed to keep it at the bottom of the trash can. Attach the other end to the air pump, and then go get yourself about a gallon of your very best compost. Dump that stuff into the trash can, turn on the air pump, cover and give it a few days to bubble and brew.

Open the spicket and fill a watering can with this beautiful liquid and go on your merry way, watering all your plants, and your fruit trees. You will love the results. If you want, put a few drops of fish emulsion in the can also, In fact, there are those who feel that spraying the tree with the tea helps also, because some of the nutrients, which leach into the water from the compost, can be directly absorbed by the leaves.

Finally, there is the question of pollination. Beneficial insects, like bees and butterflies, and even Hummingbirds can pollinate your fruit trees for you. However, you need to provide suitable surroundings to attract these little helpers. Bright flowers nearby the fruit trees is always a sure way of getting those little guys attention. Some orchard owners invite beekeepers to put bee boxes on the edge of their orchards. Bees will travel over ten miles in one direction in search of pollen. Once they find your trees, then you have it made. You will have a happy full fruit tree in no time. All you will have to do is get the canning jars ready for the fruits of your efforts!

If you have trees that are just too far gone, and you need to replace them, may I offer a suggestion? First, your local Nursery will have fruit trees that are suitable for your region. Buying from a catalogue may be a bit less expensive, but you must be careful to insure the trees you are ordering are suitable for your growing zone. As a general rule of thumb, I like to chose trees that actually are suited for the next coldest zone from the one in which I live. Some times it helps having a hardier tree than needed in the zone in which you live. They will set fruit a bit faster, and they will definitely be able to survive the dormant season more heartily. Also, try to stay away from trees that are Staked in their pot. If they do not have the strength to stand on their own in the pot without fruit on them, how can they be expected to stand on their own in the ground. Choose trees that are thick trunked and sturdy. Staked trees are usually spindly and weak. The last thing you want is a tree that looks like a Charlie Brown Christmas tree with fruit dangling off it.

Finally, be sure to check your trees everyday as harvest time comes. Pick the fruit daily, as it becomes ripe and ready for picking. Do not allow fruit to sit on the ground all around the tree. Keep the fruit picked up. Fruit, left to rot on the ground can cause problems. They can and will attract insects, and can and will cause disease in the tree, eventually. Not to mention the fact that it will get kind of messy and stinky under there if you just leave that stuff all around!

As I said in the start, these are things that I have done in the past, and I have had very good luck. Oh, and let me just add this.

If you are going to net the tree to protect the fruit, (A very common practice for protecting fruit from birds) ensure there is not a nest in the tree to begin with. I was living in Florida, and since the wild parrots in the area I lived in loved the figs as much as I did, Netting the tree was necessary to protect the fruit. Unfortunately, I did not see the Parrot in the nest when I covered the tree. The squawking and screaming and fluttering around alerted me to the trapped, rather angry, Parrot. I quickly pulled the net back to free her. Instead of being thankful, she dive bombed me as I ran over three blocks trying to get away from her. How traumatizing is that? Beaten up by a Parrot. (I'd make a lousy pirate. Argh!)